Documenting the Archive - Romeo Gigli


Romeo Gigli S/S87 Photography by Paolo Roversi
Romeo Gigli S/S87 Photography by Paolo Roversi

When shopping for The Archive there are a few designers who are always at the top of the list of recent acquisitions. Issey Miyake, of course - never a huge focus on the “pleats,” but I am obsessed with the earlier, archival pieces in natural, handmade fibers and daring silhouettes. Vintage gold. 

Another designer that makes my heart race is Romeo Gigli, whose global approach to design shook the fashion space from the 80s through the early 2000s. No one could distill as many diverse historical references into a resplendent and chic collection quite like Romeo Gigli. You could always feel the hand in his work. Unexpected draping and finishes, luxurious embellishments, intentional fabric manipulation and printing, genius, often regal, tailoring. Magnifique. 

Romeo Gigli Fall/Wint 1994 -

Janine Giddings & Farrah Summerford by Max Vadukul

 

One piece of my many-petaled preparation for the April show season is research. While mending and editing are super important, shopping and research are vital to doing things The Moore Vintage Archive way. On top of being super fun for a fashion history nerd like me, it also adds necessary context to the collection.

The only thing better than finding a diamond in the rough is locating the provenance and documentation that connect a piece to a larger, more complex history. It enriches the stock, adds delectable, eyes-rolling-in-the-back-of-your-head umami. Finger-licking good ghost stories that bring a moment of history back to life in realtime. 

Gigli Sunday Times

 

When I find a piece on the runway or in a fashion magazine or fashion editorial it lets me know that it was one that the designer or fashion editor strongly believed in. It represents a necessary, conceptual component to the story a designer dared to tell. For this post I’ll share two instances of recently documented runway pieces in the archive, both by Romeo Gigli. 

The first is an oversized striped blazer with luxurious jacquard and brocade ribbon appliqué from fall 1994. The second is a printed and dyed jacket from spring 1994. Both pieces will be brought to the Brooklyn return of A Current Affair (click the link to get your tickets - it's sure to be the best vintage shopping experience you've ever witnessed)

Gigli runway piece

 

 

 

 

 

 


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