In the thick of the pandemic with so much social upheaval and cultural rewiring I was selected among a few other black-owned vintage resale businesses to “take over” the A Current Affair instagram in an effort to, presumably, right the wrongs of the past. I hosted several public conversations on A Current Affair’s behalf, inviting friends and thought leaders to partake in what I felt at the time to be a kind of restorative justice. I hosted the first and really only “Virtual Black Owned Vintage Crawl” that highlighted several acclaimed and under-sung vintage resellers, many of whom have gone on to make huge waves in the scene, opening stores across the country and shining as brilliantly as the talents that they are.
After contributing such a positive impact and lending my cultural capital to, in many ways, uplift and support an organization that would show me, inevitably, that the support I lent was not valued in a new Trump-informed moral landscape that continues to supplant efforts for diversity, equity and inclusion, I was unceremoniously “rotated out” of A Current Affair, indefinitely. I was alerted of my dismissal only a few months before the fall show, after I’d already spent thousands of dollars sourcing for the season.
I am certainly not the first. Richard has a fear-based management style that punishes anything that doesn’t resemble complete and utter fealty from my experience. If you ask any vintage dealer who’s participated in the tradeshow you will find few who would refute this opinion. Even though many vintage dealers face economic hardships, Richard repeatedly discourages participation in other shows, while never offering security or any kind of exclusivity retainer. I, admittedly, pushed back against this, stating to many who asked “No one can tell me how to sustain my business in this economy. I am already up against the wall and I need to use all the crayons in the box to ensure my business’s survival.” Though it was not explicitly stated to me I knew that my dismissal was largely a result of my political outspokenness and resistance. I feel that my dismissal was used to teach dealers a lesson to “stay in line” and abide by the rules no matter how unfair and deeply controlling they may be.
I can’t count how many dealers have come to me complaining about the bind this management style places on their businesses but many acquiesce, releasing their sense of free will, because the show performs well enough. There are other dealers who have been “rotated out” that have found their way back into Richard’s good graces through a humiliation ritual of public groveling that I frankly do not possess the wherewithal to perform.
After it became public knowledge through my other posts on Instagram stories there was an immediate outpouring of support. Many shoppers explained to me the reasons why they no longer shop at A Current Affair. Vintage dealers, many of whom are Black and POC, came out of the woodwork citing many instances of being publicly maligned by Richard which both gave me a sense of solidarity as well as filled me with deep sadness. Though it can feel deeply encouraging to know that you are not alone, the collective abuses ultimately wear on the soul especially when those abuses are experienced by Black women.
This August marks a full year of being released from the restrictive yoke of that show and it brings me great pride to know that I’ve come out largely unscathed and stronger than ever. So much has changed and shifted in my life and career and I truly believe that all rejection is a kind of redirection if you are genuinely seeking alignment. I’ve gone on to open a vintage showroom in Tribeca, which, candidly, was another effort to safeguard against other abuses by people in power. I’ve worked on costumes for operas, rekindled my writing and styling careers, created deeply cathartic art, and ultimately created an unflinching commitment to my joy, my body and my voice.
My final email to Richard reads as follows and remains unanswered:
Hey Richard,
Believe me there is no love loss. In fact, the expression of truth in this way is a form of love.
As much as you’ve supported me and my business, I know that I’ve also contributed so much to this community through my merit, work ethic and systems of care.
Year over year, attendees and vendors alike let me know that I have one of the warmest, most professional booths and one of the most impressive edits of high-end vintage clothing and accessories. I consistently contribute so much marketing and promo for the show. I also offer my labor, insights and hired assistants to help other vendors and I have a deep social justice ethos at the core of my business model which is incredibly rare in this world, let alone this industry specifically.
Ultimately, this is how you’ve chosen to exercise your power given everything happening in the world. This is how you've chosen to demonstrate how much you value my participation in your market.
I’m curious why you think my expression of truth and valid disappointment reads as an attack on your show?
Best,
Keesean
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